CHANTELLE KO
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Swiss Machine Headers Can Be Dumb

29/3/2019

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​Despite the buzzing, I moved on to working on the Arduino, because for the purposes of a proof of concept, the fingerboard was done. I discovered that the swiss machine headers I have are slightly different from the ones that are on TRAVIS I. For some reason the connection between the shield and the Arduino is fine when it is tilted to the extreme and does not work when it is sitting flat. I think it will be fine if the male to male headers are turned around. 
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First Playing Test!

26/3/2019

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The ebony piece is attached and the PLA part is taped on with scotch double sided tape. I found that the ebony was a little too tall, so my G string was buzzing when I played forte. I can see when looking at the side that the bottom of the header piece is not flush with the bottom of the ebony piece. I think the fingerboard being flat underneath (without an undercurve) makes the sound a little tinny. Certain notes I’m also getting a strange buzzing. Maybe a wolf tone modulator will help to make it sound warmer? 
Pay no mind to my poor intonation...
Shhh... you never saw me practicing in the fablabx! 
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DO NOT SAND CONDUCTIVE PLA!!!!!

23/3/2019

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I tested the strips after sanding them and they barely worked. I then took them out of the fingerboard and flipped them over to test the other side. The un-sanded side still worked fine. So, lesson learnt, to not sand the side of conductive PLA that needs to be conductive! I ended up re-printing all of my strips… again. I also sanded the sides of them so that they can fit into the slots, and that was fine, just as long as I didn’t sand the surface.  
 
Here are the results for the re-printed strips:
5_GStrip.stl 
20MW  
Close: 0
Mid: 0.01
End: 0.01
2MW 
Close: 0.002
Mid: 0.007
End: 0.011
200KW 
Close: 2.9
Mid: 6.4
End: 11.0
20KW
Close: 2.19
Mid: 6.67
End: 10.89
2kW: 0L

5_DStrip.stl
I noticed this one is a bit more jittery at the 20k setting at the far nut end.
20MW  
Close: 0
Mid: 0.01
End:0.01
2MW 
Close: 0.002
Mid: 0.009
End: 0.014
200KW 
Close: 1.7
Mid: 7.4
End: 12.5
20KW
Close: 1.97
Mid: 8.25
End: 16.7
2kW: 0L

5_AStrip.stl
20MW  
Close: 0
Mid: 0
End: 0.01
2MW 
Close: 0.002
Mid: 0.01
End: 0.012
200KW 
Close: 1.8
Mid: 9.5
End:  13.4
20KW
Close: 1.64
Mid: 6.63
End: 12.13
2kW: 0L

5_EStrip.stl
20k setting, starting at the middle is a bit jittery. Nut end isn’t too bad though.
20MW  
Close: 0
Mid: 0
End:0.01
2MW 
Close: 0.003
Mid: 0.006
End: 0.013
200KW 
Close: 3.0
Mid: 6.4
End: 11.2
20KW
Close: 3.07
Mid: 7.55
End: 10.49
2kW: 0L

Picture
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First Ebony Method Fingerboard

21/3/2019

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I finally finished the first ebony method fingerboard! Hopefully I won’t do anything to mess it up…
I made the header holes tighter, so they don’t need glue to stay in. Just need to be extra careful when unplugging them that they don’t get pulled out. I sanded the top so that the strips are flush with the surface.
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Superglue is Insulative...

20/3/2019

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I did a few things. First was the JST connectors arrived, so I figured out where it should go for the strings. I didn't solder them yet though. Second was even more troubleshooting issues with the strips…
I spent the past week or so focusing on mechanical issues rather than electrical. I’ve been printing lots of strips because of it, but not testing them. Now I think I have figured out a good relationship between the strips and the fingerboard, so I am testing the resistance again.
 
4Ebony_DStrip.stl
One problem is that superglue insulates the header. Too much glue and I lose the connection. I think I developed a way to get it right, but only after accidentally messing up the D and A strips. I tried soaking them in rubbing alcohol and in nail polish remover, it didn’t help.
 
My solution was to first take a soldering iron and press down on the header for about 5 sec so it would sink deeper into the hole. Then I made a cup of hot water and dipped the end into the cup. After that I squeezed the edges so that the header would be wedged in. I added superglue to the outside in order to provide support to the edges. It doesn’t look pretty, but it works.  
 
Then… the above method only worked with the D strip and I ended up ruining all of the headers with superglue anyways... 
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First test for the ebony method

17/3/2019

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I adjusted the slot placement and chopped off the bottom half of the fingerboard. I also printed a second piece to hold the header ends. This way I am creating the full length of the fingerboard. I had to completely re-do the design of the strips in order for there to be enough room for them at the nut end. Before they were “I” shaped. Now they are shaped more like how my clamps fit together. I also have to print them with supports because the header end is now flat on the build plate and the rest of the strip is in the air. Not the most ideal way to print, but my tests from a long time ago proved that they can't be printed sideways without ruining the rails that keep the strip in place.
 
These pictures are taken before the ebony base was ready. I just placed the prints on for the sake of measuring.
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New Plan

15/3/2019

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Since printing the entire fingerboard was not working, Aaron had an idea to help make it stronger. I print only the top portion of the fingerboard, and he makes an ebony base. This means that the fingerboard will not have the under-curve, but at least it should be strong enough. We'll see how it affects the sound. This was his drawing.
Picture
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Case Parts

14/3/2019

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I’ve been printing parts for the Arduino case. The lipo battery I have is slightly smaller than the last one, so I had to make some adjustments to the dimensions of its box. The first time I printed it, it was a little bit too small. But I got it on the second try. There was something interesting I noticed about the clamps that I printed. They were all from the same file, but their lengths were ever so slightly different. I then realized that it must have had to do with which way they were oriented while printing, and gravity was affecting it. 
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First Fingerboard Test Part 2

13/3/2019

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Even though the last fingerboard print wasn’t working, I put it on my violin in order to see how the outer dimensions fit, and how the slots line up under the strings. It was a little too tall on the nut end. The two outer slots should be moved over a bit. However, I discovered an even bigger problem: the fingerboard bends when playing in the high positions. 
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First Fingerboard Test!

12/3/2019

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I made the length of the fingerboard slightly shorter in order to accommodate the smaller build plate of the Ultimaker. It curves a bit. Another problem is that 3 out of four strips don’t fit. It kind of looks like a Wolverine claw. I’m not sure why because they were all modelled with the same dimensions. Because of how the model curves on top of the fingerboard, it’s not perfectly smooth. 
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Multiplexing!

10/3/2019

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I successfully figured out how to multiplex with the Sparkfun 8 Channel (74HC4051). My long breadboard is half dead, so I had to manage on a couple small ones. 
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Testing of the first fingerboard strips!

9/3/2019

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Printing the actual fingerboard strips are a bit more of a challenge than the test strips, because the top surface is curved. Layer height 0.1mm, Infill Density 70%, Pattern: Triangles.
 
EStrip_Short.stl
E strip is on a bit of an angle, so I had to rotate it flat in Cura. The problem is, is that it is difficult to tell if it’s rotated properly or not. There is a bit of overhangs inside the tracks that need to be picked out. It’s also a little on the rough side as it gets closer to the nut end, but not too bad. The header hole is perfect.
 
The resistance fluctuates a lot at the ends.
20MW  
Close: 0
Mid: 0
End:0
2MW  
Close: 0.002
Mid: 0.006
End: 0.009
200KW 
Close: 1.7
Mid: 5.0
End:  8.3
20KW
Close: 1.46
Mid: 5.3
End: 9.8
2kW: 0L

GStrip_Short.stl
Turned out similarly to the E. I think the overhangs are a bit better though.
20MW  
Close: 0
Mid: 0
End:0
2MW  
Close: 0.001
Mid: 0.004
End: 0.07
200KW 
Close: 2.2
Mid: 3.9
End:  6.8
20KW
Close: 1.45
Mid: 4.31
End: 6.91
2kW: 0L

DStrip_Short.stl
This is better than the G and E strips. Probably because the bottom is flatter. It was made with support checked off.  
20MW  
Close: 0
Mid: 0
End:0.01
2MW  
Close: 0.003
Mid: 0.005
End: 0.009
200KW 
Close: 3.5
Mid: 5.7
End:  8.7
20KW
Close: 1.78
Mid: 5.33
End: 9.25
2kW: 0L

AStrip_Short.stl
First time I printed, it turned out ok. However, the nut end was peeling off the build plate and it not useable. I’ll try again with it flipped over.
 
The flipped over orientation was fine. I don’t know what went wrong before, because I printed all the other strips this way before. I tested the 2nd print, not the first print.
20MW  
Close: 0
Mid: 0
End:0
2MW  
Close: 0.001
Mid: 0.003
End: 0.009
200KW 
Close: 1.5
Mid: 4.0
End:  8.3
20KW
Close: 1.36
Mid: 4.27
End: 8.32
2kW: 0L

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    Welcome to the TRAVIS blog!

    ​If you would like to see a summary of my work, please click here.  

    This blog is where I post updates on TRAVIS I & II as I continue developing them.
    TRAVIS I is an augmented violin that uses two Softpot sensors on the fingerboard to control sound fx, and two FSR's to bang presets.
    ​
    My wired prototype, uses an Arduino Lilypad USB. It was made by myself, and under the supervision of Dr. Bob Pritchard. 

    The wireless version uses an Arduino MKR1000. There was a group of engineering students who collaborated with SUBCLASS. Their names are Jin Han, Esther Mutinda, Carol Fu, and Lily Shao. For their own capstone they are utilized the same MKR1000 for the RUBS (Responsive User Bodysuit).  They named their capstone, WiRED (Wireless RUBS Environment Development). I have been modifying their work for my own purposes, as well as collaborating by making pieces with RUBS. 
    Bob Pritchard continues the RUBS project with TASTE. 

    TRAVIS II is was made in collaboration with Lora Oehlberg and luthier, Aaron Pratte. 

    It has four touch sensors​ made from conductive 3D print PLA and a voltage running down the strings. It also has four round FSRs clamped to the body. 

    You can find a videos and performances here. 

    A summary of my wifi connection troubleshooting can be found here. 

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  • Home
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    • Soundscapes
    • Augmented Props
    • Sofra Ensemble
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  • Contact